The remote box is easily constructed on perf board that has copper on one side or no copper on one side. As you can see in photos B, C, and D, the components are mounted on the copper side and the wiring is done on the non copper side. Wherever a component pin passes through the board, the copper is relieved using a small drill bit. All ground connections are made to the copper on the component side, and all of the other connections are made on the other side of the board using either the wires of the components themselves or # 30 wire wrap wire which can be obtained from Radio Shack. If non copper board is used, the ground will have to be a wire on the non component side. Since this is an audio circuit involving low frequencies, the non copper approach is fine. The parts list shows a non copper board because it is less expensive. Whichever type of board you use, the board needs to be cut so that it is 1.2 " X 2.9". The parts list also shows a 8 pin microphone plug. If your transceiver has something else, you will have to make this substitution. The document Parts.html shows the parts list and the document Installation.html shows how to connect and setup the wireless remote link. The pdf file TY300P.pdf shows transformer T1 and T2 connections. Some cordless phones require a voltage to enable them, so a 9 volt battery is included in the circuit. If you have a phone that does not require a battery to enable it, the battery can be replaced with a wire.
If you purchase a cordless phone for this project, make sure that you get one that has an auxillary jack on the handset, so you can connect a headset with a boom microphone. If you clip the hand set on your belt, you can have complete hands free, remote operation.